MY FRIEND IN TUSCANY!

February 17, 2020 108 Comments

I think MOST OF YOU KNOW I LIVED IN ITALY in the 1990’s.

It was NOT by choice but by NEED. Doing the right thing as my husband had sisters still at home and in High School.You see his FATHER passed a month before we married in 1986 and his MOTHER passed in 1991.

SO, we did what any young family would do we sold most of our belongings and packed up the BOYS to Move to FLORENCE to the BIG FAMILY HOME ON THE HILL.It was a BIG ADJUSTMENT for me but I did the best I could.I found a group of ENGLISH SPEAKING WOMEN with small children.The first playdate we met in a PARK. The world medical literature and emerging publications of https://www.xanalys.com/ambien-zolpidem-online-10-mg/ the authors in scientific journals confirm the relevance and importance of studying the directions of biotransformation of Ambien and the study of its metabolites and their derivatives for the needs of clinical diagnostic and chemical Toxicological analysis. The lady above sat across from me on a bench!She was from CALIFORNIA, Los Angeles to be exact and had gone to UC BERKELEY!THAT meant she was SMART as a WHIP.Oh, I prayed she would become my friend!I was so excited I remember telling THE ITALIAN about her!I HOPE SHE WILL BE MY FRIEND; I did not speak much ITALIAN at the time.

She had a son and a daughter……….the THIRD CHILD GAIA which means JOY came along later!(I had something to do with THAT! I did I really really did!)

Needless to say we became GOOD, GOOD FRIENDS and I still get to see her once in awhile when she comes to the STATES to see her CHILDREN NOW who are in the Santa Barbara and Los Angeles area!

What’s it like being an American in Italy?

Living in a foreign land has become part of my identity. In the USA, I’m the lucky one who lives abroad while here I’m the American (or actually, the Californian) who lives in Italy (which most Italians think is crazy because of pervasive California Dreaming). I live a bit of a dual reality with boots on the ground in Italy while still holding hands with my American culture. Even after 35 years of living here, though for the most part I know I’m accepted, I still feel a bit of an outsider. I can easily maneuver in the Italian world, I speak the language (though how correctly is up for debate according to my kids, all born and raised here), and I’ve come to know the cultures, some more than others. I say cultures, with an “s” because there really isn’t one Italian culture, there are many spread across this peninsula. It’s a young country, comparatively speaking, born in 1861 with the unification of all the different regions, their different local languages (dialects) and habits still alive and mostly well in each area today.

One of the biggest components, maybe the most important one, of living here is my group of friends, all expats themselves. We mostly all have Italian families that we married into, but I’d venture to say that we all claim each other as our virtual family here. Like an immigrant group anywhere we have banded together to continue those cultural experiences from our homeland that the Italians don’t do, like Easter egg Hunts, Thanksgiving and Halloween. We’ve been there for each other through thick and thin, good times and bad, from raucous American loud laughter over happy hour Negronis, to lending an ear or a shoulder to cry on over the frustration of Italian bureaucracy, to rallying whatever support is needed to get one of us through a serious illness or loss of a loved one. I really don’t think I’d have lasted so long here without this group of women.

I love what everyone loves about Italy when they visit: the food, the natural beauty, the art and architecture, the language, the people. And I struggle with the things that tourists don’t usually see: the corruption, the taxes, unemployment, expensive energy, the lack of a viable future for our kids. It took some time to get used to the different rhythm of life here where my American efficiency-plus approach to getting things done could not work. Now that different rhythm is one of the things I appreciate the most – that and the wine, of course. I’m not sure if I could live where midday naps aren’t the norm or where I couldn’t go down the street to buy good quality wine from the bulk supplier at 3 euro a bottle.

Are you happy you raised your children there?

Yes. I appreciate living in a place where mealtimes are sacred and children are cherished (though sometimes to an extreme…). I love how early education is run here with state-funded pre-school for 3 to 5 year olds, and elementary school from 1st to 5th grade where the teachers stay with the same group of kids through the three year pre-school or the five year elementary school period. My kids were not only taught, they were cared for. Middle school and high school is a different story – I didn’t much appreciate the Italian approach there and had to take the perspective of “what doesn’t kill them makes them stronger,” which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Overall, I think their growing up in Florence afforded them a lot more liberty early on. They were taking public (not school) buses already in elementary school, going to the store for me even at 9 years old, riding mopeds at 14, out at the discos during the high school years, walking home across town at 5am on the weekends. It was (and mostly still is) safe for kids to be out on their own here which was something I didn’t feel was the same anymore for kids their age in the states. Drinking alcohol as an activity isn’t really a thing here, which is a plus for kids AND of course for potentially worrying parents. My kids grew up knowing good food that was made at home, speaking two languages and knowing there is a world out there (as compared to their mother who grew up where essentially America was the only country in the world and California the only state in the country).

THAT’s MY YOUNGEST SON in the back with the glasses!(SAYS CONTESSA!)

SIERRA, KATHARINE, GAIA and MATTEO.

Here is KATHARINE with SIERRA at the CAMPGROUND in PUNTA ALA.

I do believe YOUR CONTESSA SNAPPED THIS PHOTO!

SUMMERS WERE ALWAYS SPENT AT THE BEACH!

MATTEO & Contessa’s Son Kristopher

What was the most difficult thing to overcome?

Learning the language was tough. My early years here were spent working with American tourists, therefore speaking English all day. I sold T-shirts in the open market for my boyfriend’s business (when people back home would ask my mom what I was doing now that I’d graduated from UC Berkeley with a degree in Civil Engineering, she’d say “She’s in retail”). My boyfriend spoke perfect English and my friends were other expats so basically except for the few times I had to interact with Italians, I was speaking English all the time. That’s not how to learn a foreign language where you have to remember all the different conjugations of each verb ! Only when I started working in the marble industry for architects and designers in the states who were buying stone from Italy did I make progress with learning the language because none of those guys in Cararra spoke anything other than Italian.

The other thing that was hard was missing my family back in the states. Communication then was only through letters and the occasional expensive overseas phone call. And the international flights were expensive (still are…) so going back and forth was not always an option.

What did you miss most about the USA in the beginning and now 35 years later?

Back in the 80s, the differences between Italy and the USA were more stark than they are today with our globalized society. In those early years I missed certain creature comforts like favorite foods (Mexican or Chinese), Crest toothpaste or shopping at Trader Joe’s. I (embarassingly) missed going to the mall. I missed being able to browse in bookstores and always brought a whole suitcase of English books back with me to get me through til the next visit. I missed relaxing in front of a TV show where I understand everything everyone said. And I missed the easy camaraderie of life long friends who understood me.

Over these 35 years, Italy (and the world in general) has changed a lot, having kept an eye focused on America for indications on how to supposedly move into a successful future. It’s now easy to get good Chinese food here, Mexican, not so much (but we do have avocados in the supermarkets now). You can get anything you want through online shopping, so there’s nothing to really miss anymore in terms of “stuff.” They have malls here in Italy now but I wouldn’t be caught dead in one of them (and avoid them now in the states too). Keeping up with friends and family back in the states is far easier now with the internet. So now when people ask me what I miss about the states, my answer is: Hummingbirds.

Would you do it all over again?

If I could choose a do-over, would I live my whole adult life in Italy? I’d have to say yes. Knowing what I know now, in hindsight I might make some different decisions, but on the whole I think living in Italy has been good for me. It has made me not take things for granted, able to appreciate what the USA does well and to have the perspective to question other aspects of where I grew up. I so appreciate being bilingual and how I’ve had to forge my own path since living here I was governed neither by the structure and expectations I grew up with nor those of where I was living, since I didn’t grow up here. Overall it hasn’t been a cake walk. But I suspect the challenge is what I needed. And of course, I’m a much better cook…

THE PONTE VECCHIO in FIRENZE.

YOUR CONTESSA speaking now I have to say living here for THREE YEARS, TWO MONTHS and 10 days was THE HIGHLIGHT of MY LIFE!It was not an easy Life but a MOST ENJOYABLE place to call HOME!Household dryers were hard to come by as were M&M’s!The grocery store closed in the middle of the afternoon on WEDNESDAYS or was it every day?One had to “DRESS” to go to the grocery store!That meant a silk blouse and wool pants ABSOLUTELY NO JEANS!!!!!!!Back in the 90’s we paid for our plastic bags!!They were 10 cents each and people re-used them FOREVER!So, this BAG thing we are NOW DOING IN THE STATES WAS DONE 30 years ago in ITALY!Why is it AMERICA is ALWAYS SO SLOW TO CATCH ON……………?

IF you are headed to FLORENCE in the next couple of years; I have another friend who made a shopping list of her FAVORITE SHOPS.SEE if you have been or WHAT SHE HAS TO SAY!THIS WOMAN GETS THERE OFTEN SO TAKE A PEEK………PLUS SHE IS FUNNY!

FLORENCE FINDS BY MICHELLE FOLEY

THIS is a list by a woman I have NEVER MET but who I have spoken with on the PHONE ONCE and she knows a couple of people THAT I KNOW SO THAT COUNTS RIGHT?It’s been way too long since I have been to ITALY so I will let her lead the way!

KATHARINE speak up if you think otherwise or know a shop has since closed in the comment section!

Let’s have a FLORENTINE CONVERSATION!

SHARE your stories and or places of INTEREST!

I hope to HEAR FROM THESE THREE AS WELL AS THEY ARE THE REAL DEAL!

FLORENTINE BORN AND RAISED!!

CIAO TUTTI TRE!

VENGA A San Francisco VIENE A TROVARE ME PLEASE!

The shopping in Florence is the best on the planet. You will find so many interesting and wonderful shops that you will literally drop before you see it all! Shopping for clothing is expensive and cheaper in the US . There is an exception. To visit in January and I assume July), about the 2-3rd week of January, you will find all the fall and winter items between 70-85% off. They do not mess around with 20% then 30% then 40%.they go right to 70% off. I got a Missioni outfit (that would be a skirt, sweater, jacket and looooooooong scarf), that all matches and in my size for a total of $375.00. Since I am not a size two like you, I can’t even find the European clothes in the states that are in my size (50-52) that is only a 12-14 skinny. I also picked up some other Missioni scarves as that is my most fav European designer. But if you are not going in January or July, FORGET clothes. Look but don’t touch, unless you want to go broke. You will see the chicest women when you are out walking the city. Even the young girls are so fashionable.

Ok, lets get down to shopping!

This is a must! and go out of your way to see this place,

My most favorite place (store and it really isn’t your typical store) is called

Farmaceutica Di Santa Marie Novella Via della Scala 16r
Florence
phone 055/216-276

From the name it sounds like a “drug store” but just you wait.
This is the most amazing “place”. It is kind of hard to find ( there is a laundry next door “La Serena”, Via della Scala 30 r, this is the best laundry in Florence by the way, so if you need something cleaned, they can do it in a few hrs) Keep looking for the store because it is not easy to find, I was right outside the front door ( a huge ancient wooden door) and I still could not find it. Anyway this place does not “look” like a store front because it really isn’t………it is a convent!!!!! The place is the most beautiful environment that you have EVER shopped in….you think you are walking into a cathedral, well I guess you actually are! Anyway the ceilings are a beautiful blue that is all gold guilted with high vaulted architecture. It is an old time (I’m talk’n the 16th century is when the monks opened it’s doors to sell their products) establishment that the monks make up the most unbelievable creams and potions! They have an almond cream that is the most heavenly cream that will ever touch your face. It is used by all of the beauty and fashion editors all over Europe and America. When I was in there the beauty editor of Vogue was in there with her “dog and pony show” buying out the place. The Italian fashion shows had just ended 2 days prior in Milan and she had to stop in and pick up a few essentials. I asked whythey don’t write about this in the magazines and she said “Dawling, it is too divine for the average woman” (oh get over yourself I was thinking!) All of their creams and lotions for the face, hands and hair are truly to DIE for (dawling). The sales girls are very good and will help you thru the products the only draw back is that their English is not so good. Here are the few things that I have picked up (and have reordered since my last visit). The first room that you come to (after walking thru this HOLY place is all of the scents. There are these long glass cases with everything you can imagine and every scent you could think up. The second room is candles and oil scents. The third or fourth room is all of the lotions (the last room you come to just keep walking). they also have a sales gal who will have one of the monks make you up an herbal preperation for any ailment that you might have..headaches, joint pains cramps, PMS, you name it. It is an old fashion (ya 600 years old) pharmacy with all of the different herbs and what ever they use in these potions. It is truly the most magical place you have ever been in. You would almost expect Harry Potter to turn up in one of the sales rooms. It is not cheap but you must splurge on the almond cream for your face, don’t get the almond paste, it dries out very fast. The soaps and body splashes are wonderful. MUST NOT MISS THIS as you will NEVER see a place like this anywhere else in the universe! Anyway… GO NUTS….get it? nuts, almonds HA HA.

OK know for the leather stuff My most favorite leather place is Umberto
Via Guicciardini 114r
tel 055/29.30.91

It is on the other side of the Arno
the Ponte Vecchio and walk maybe 2,3,4 blocks? it is on the right side of the street. They are one of the suppliers for my great New York bag place on 56th and 5th ave. He has the most beautiful bags and wallets in Florence (he has the great wallets that you and I love with the horse bit closure.) the belts are nice also. I think this is the BEST in the city and the prices, although they are not inexpensive…for the quality…..they are a great value. Umberto, if he is there and not at the factory, is the nicest Italian gentleman and very interesting to talk with! Enjoy it all! By the way, this is the store that the purse that you love of mine, came from!!!

My second favorite leather place is actually in a church (do you see a pattern here with the religious thing and purchasing?!?) Anyway this is a very famous “leather school” they have students that are in “school” for 7 years and the “teachers” are master leather craftsmen who are darling, ancient Italian men.

Scuola Del Cuoio
Piazza Santa Croce, 16 (through the church beyond the Sacristy to the right down a long hall) or you can enter thru the garden to the right of the churches main entrance.

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River (Pitti side)…………if you walk over

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You will want to visit this church anyway as it is one of the most important church in Italy .
This is actually a leather school where you can see and talk to all of the students working on leather goods. The teachers are right there as well and are all very friendly (more so if you speak the language but………….) they sell beautiful handbags, briefcases , luggage, wallets, belts and any and everything that can be made of leather including leather frames. They also have the very famous gold embossing on many items (sounds gross but they are pretty.) All of the items that are for sale are made by the craftsmen and NOT the students, so don’t think you might get a bag that doesn;t open or will fall apart. None of these items are sold to retail stores so if you like it buy it there, because you will not see it anywhere else. This is a fun place to go and I actually bought several bags there………..but I did sooooooooooo much more damage to the Visa card at Umberto’s.

My next leather shop is right on the Arno River near the Ponte Vicchio

Da Firenze leather factory
Lungarno Acciauoli, 64r
tel 005/213681
They have very nice bags and the least expensive of the 3 spots…..Lots of styles like the Hermes, Birkin bag (that runs around $5000.00 if you are lucky enough to be called from the waiting list)! I got 2 of them (trust me, I did not and would not pay anything near that) I think theywere $300ish, and I wish I had purchased a few more. Great colors and different leathers. A friend of mine has THE Hermes Birkin bag ($2500.00) (OK so she has more money then brains). We compared them inside and out, hardware and leather and we could not find a difference except for the gold stamped “Hermes” under the flap?!? (she was pissed) HA HA. Love this place

Gloves

There are “little ” (they are very small) glove stores scattered across the city. They all look alike and maybe owned by the same person, but the styles are chic, classic and funky. Anything that you want, they have. You will find the most incredible colors in these little works of art. You will pay anywhere from $50-150, but you will never find the same ones in the states.

OK enough of leather now on to paper.

PAPER

You have seen this stuff, the beautiful Florentine paper, it is kind of marbleized. These shops are great for gifts to those back home, ranging from $5-20 as well as items for yourself.

Il Papiro

They are all over town I think 5 or 6 different shops. There is one near the bag shop above that is right on the Arno but this one is the size of a closet (that would be a closet in an old home).
one address is

Piazza Del Duomo,24r,

I think this is the one I went to
GO WILD here! They have the most beautiful paper with leather bound books (Blank pages). I got a large one and put all of our photos in it. They have paper covered pencils, journals, address books, boxes, picture frames ETC,ETC,ETC. More things then you could think of that are covered in this wonderful paper .

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The second and largest Paper Emporium is

Parione
Via Parione, 10 russo Tel 055.215684
or
Via dello Studio 11 rosso Tel 055215030

This is my favorite paper place because the selection is very good. You really need to visit one of the paper stores, as this paper is exquisite and centurys old product produced only in Florence .

Hats

These are the most beautifully made hats that you will find on this planet.

Borsalino

There are a few stores around the city, check with the hotel for locations, as this a great place.
They have every kind of fedora that was ever made. They are packable and some are waterproof wool. They have all different fabrics and styles and any size that you need. The prices range from moderate ($100) to very $$$$$$$. Joe and I both got one, (mine is that black and white wool one that I wear)

************GOLD***********

For beautiful and the best prices in Florence (it is not a tourist trap like the stalls on the bridge
There is tons of GOLD in Florence . The place that was recommended to us is not on the street level and so much cheaper!

C.O.I. Wholesale jewellery Via Por S. Maria 8, 2nd floor 055283970 tel

OK, I don’t think you are getting true wholsale prices (only because you shouldn’t get it) but the prices are very good (please take into consideration that gold is high and our dollar is low)
It is close to the corner of Via Vacchereccia and Via Por S Maria maybe even on the corner and I don’t think it is marked very well so look around It is on the second floor so you are looking for a door not a store front.

Ask for Stefania. It is not fancy AT ALL, but with these prices who cares. LARGE ASSORTMENT OF 18 KT BRACLETS, NECKLACES, RINGS, PINS, CHAINS, MEDALS etc. I got a beautiful very heavy gold large link bracelet , looks like a Gucci link. I could have come home with 10 other items if I had the money!!!!! But you know me and jewelry!?! I will head back to this store/office the next time I visit on the first day!

More jewelry
Ugo Piccini
Via Por S Maria 9-11r
tel 055.214511
It is right on the street that leads across the Ponte Vecchio about 4 store fronts
Ask for Mario and tell them that Marcella sent you. Don’t ask me just do it?!? One of the big things there is the “gold Firenze ” coin that many places sell. It is an old coin that was used in Florence several hundred years ago. They have reproduced them and set them in wonderful jewelry pcs. I got one for my gold coin charm bracelet. This is a nice rememberance of Florence . They have very classic designs here and as in all the jewelry shops they will size or make things up for you within hours?!? Crazy but true. The jewelry stalls on the Ponte Vecchio are mostly very high price but fun to look in the windows. I did get 2 antique gold seals for my other charm bracelet and I got a very good price but as you know I have been collection them for 25 years. The store is right on the corner of the Ponte Vecchio and the street that runs along the Arno river. All antique jewelry and family run, I don’t remember the name sorry.

Markets

The Straw Market is a great place to get pick-pocketed! So be aware. There is so much junk and counterfeit crap that they only thing worth going there for is to see the bronze statue of the HUGE boar. I think you are supposed to rub his nose for good luck……..maybe it is just the Italians telling all the dumb Americans that story so that we will keep him clean.?????

Side Trip well worth the $$$and time
A wonderful side trip is San Gimignano and Siena. We hired a private driver for the day (not cheap but worth it $400) SEE BELOW -He took us to both of these towns along with a few more sights that were incredible and we would never have visited if we had been on our own.

San Gimignano:

This is an incrediable hilltop village that is very medival and extremely charming.There is the most beautiful linen shop here. The shop is old rustic charm, the linens are beautiful!
Mercantia s.a.s
di Calamassi Andrea
Via S. Matteo ,62
Tel 0577940194
San Gimignano
www.mercantiaone.it
These linens and other items are made in Tuscany from beautiful 100% linen and woven by craftsmen in the ancient weaving tradition of the
region. The apron I gave you came from this shop! They have table linens, napkins of all sizes,.fabric, jewelry boxes, aprons and just about anything else that could be made out of textiles!

Siena is the city where the city is divided up into neighborhoods. Once a year, after training all year long each neighborhood competes against each other in horse races that circle around the city square. The views from the top of the Duomo is breathtaking and fun to wind up the towers to the spirals of this ancient city fortress. Great lunch on the square in one of the many cafes. This is chianti country so start the wine tasting here.

Near the Duomo, there is a wonderful little store that makes and sells ceramics. They are mostly tiles and shields of each of the 19 (I think) neighborhood’s “mascots” and symbols. I go J.L. several for this “kings and knights” bedroom theme. It is an amazing city and we could have spent a second day there easy!

Drivers

These are the two drivers that we used.

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Massimo Nistri
24 hours, English speaking A great guy
cell 335.8319750
officefax/0039.055.6266058
The Hotel hooked us up with him.
Massimo took us to Siena and San Gimignano. He took us to the most beautiful places and was very charming.

Mundo Tours this was just a cab that picked us up from a restaurant.

Mundo tours
tel 333.85.78.412
Our driver was Marcello
They do local cab rides and will go out to the country
He took us on the most wonderful cab tour of Florence , he would stop and let us get out and walk around while he waited, he even took us to the Drug store (Pharmacy) and translated Joe’s aches and pains to the drugest and we got some of the most incredible remedies. (even a great stop smoking pill that did work…….until Joe took up smoking again!) We spent about 2 1/2 hours with him! He did not want to take any extra money so instead of the $8.00 cab fare we gave him about $75.00 and had to beg him to take it?!? Crazy!
Marcello

I AM SURE IAM MISSING SOMETHING BUT THIS SHOULD BREAK YOUR BANK!

OK now for FOOD and WINE

Chianti is the most famous wine of the region and I don’t think that there is a bad bottle in the country so GOOO for it!

Trattoria Pandemonio casa brogi
Via del Leone,50/r
tel 055.224002
This restaurant was recommended to use by Joe Saurez, he is the owner of my handbag store in New York . He has been going to Italy (to buy bags) for the last 35 years. The owner is a crazy Italian women (her husband owns a leather factory). Excellent food and if you mention Joe’s name you might get more attention (maybe you don’t want that but???) Anyway, this will be an excellent meal and fab wine. You need to take a cab there, maybe walk back home.

Harry’s Bar
Lungarno Vespucci,22r
tel 0552396700
It is right on the Arno and maybe 2-3 blocks west of the Ponte Vecchio. This is not the same “Harry’s Bar” that is in Venice , and famous for it’s Belini, but it is a true classic Italian restaurant with the ambience, service and of course the wonderful food and wine. I highly recommend it for lunch (we went about 2:30 and it was perfect!)

Di Giovanni
Via Del Moro
055.284897 tel
It is just off of the Piazza Goldoni
the area has a trillion cute little shops
Joe and I loved this place. We stayed at the Westin on the Arno and it is very close to the restaurant. The hotel sent us there and it was wonderful.

There is an outdoor area and it is good people watching. I think we ate there for dinner and I found a bill for 94,00 euros so it wasn’t all the expensive. For some reason I have the name “Fabrizio” written on the business card…not sure if that is the owner or what but try throwing that name out and see were it gets you?!?

My FAVORITE restaurant is the following:
Triattoria Omero
Via Pian de Giullari,11r
This restaurant is soooooooooooooo romantic (and the waiters are very cute!). It is up on a hilltop on the south side of the city. We did not have anything that we didn’t devour. I also dragged a bottle of the most incredible olive oil home. You might even want to go there two different nites, as it is so good! You definatly need to take a cab “to and from” as it is not walkable (that I can remember). Very charming (Tuscanish) and an incredible view. Enjoy the food, and the wine is well……………..do I need to explain, the best???????????

DO NOT GO TO
Taverna Del Bronzino
Via Delle Ruote
We had this restaurant recommended by several people and we were very disappointed. Not good service not good food and very expensive$$$$. Plus you have to take a cab there and back…………no good.

Have the BEEEEEST time and enjoy every minute. I hope you fall in love with this beautiful country again,as I have.

Ciao, Ciao

THANK YOU KATHARINE AND MICHELLE FOR YOUR INPUT HERE AND TAKING US ALL ON A WONDERFUL DREAM LIKE TRIP!IT’s about time I GO BACK AND MAKE SOME NEW MEMORIES!I SPOKE WITH A PHYSIC THIS PAST WEEKEND WHO BELIEVES MY HEALTH IS A PRODUCT IN MY HOME LIKE SOAPS AND OR DETERGENTS.PERHAPS I NEED TO GO TO ITALY FOR A MONTH TO TEST THIS THEORY!I SHALL START PREPARING THE ITALIAN!!

XOXO

108 Comments

Leave your reply.

Mary
· Reply

March 18, 2020 at 6:14 PM

OK, I waited awhile to write my comment which might get lost in the shuffle here. Just to say, cara Katharine is one of my “besties”…We’ve been through the gamit together and still are (this coronavirus shit is the true test)…I’ve been blessed with her friendship, love and even actual family tie (we found out we’re related through family marriages), and I continue to support her, as she does me, in any way we can.
- LA CONTESSA
  · Reply
  
  Author
  
  March 19, 2020 at 2:58 PM
  
  RELATED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  THIS HAS MADE MY DAY!!!!!!!!!!
  I LOVE THIS NEWS!!!!!!!!!
  HOW MANY YEARS HAVE YOU KNOWN EACH OTHER?
  I Know its over 30!!!
  YES, we are all so proud of HER and the BLOG she has started to write from the front seat in ITALY now during this PANDEMIC!
  TO see Katharine’s Blog go to KATHINITALY.COM
  XX
Leslie Lord
· Reply

March 14, 2020 at 8:47 AM

Thank you for this amazing post on Italy and particularly Florence. We didn’t visit there on our last trip but it sounds enchanting. I adored the smaller medieval Italian villages and Rome with all the ruins was stunning. The food and wine were exquisite.,,I loved reading this so much as I felt like I was travelling again!
Linda Johnston
· Reply

February 29, 2020 at 10:08 AM

So sorry I did see this sooner! My daughter was studying art in Florence for her semester abroad. Sadly, the program was closed this week and all students were sent home. She was in an apartment, had local professors and a cherished pass to the Uffizi. What a fun time she would have had exploring some of these spots. I won’t be surprised if she figures out a way to return!
Jacqueline
· Reply

February 23, 2020 at 11:21 AM

What a wonderful read …… have been to Florence many times and much of Italy ( our favourite holiday destination ) I bought a skirt in Florence that I wore to our sons/daughter-in-laws wedding … can’t remember the name of the shop … it was down a little street off of the Piazza Della Signoria … I still wear it…… and LOVE San Gimignano. So glad you can comment on my blog now Elizabeth. ? XXXX
- LA CONTESSA
  · Reply
  
  Author
  
  February 23, 2020 at 5:52 PM
  
  OH ME TOO!
  TOOK me long enough to FIND OUT!!!
  SAFARI NO LONGER WORKS ON BLOGGER is what I read somewhere on another blog!
  XX
D.A. Squires
· Reply

February 23, 2020 at 10:17 AM

I have had to read this more than once : ) Lingering… over everything. Loved meeting your wonderful friend and hearing all about Italy (the closest I have come is the movie ‘Under the Tuscan Sun..’ obviously somehow I must go one day). And fell completely IN LOVE with the Cathedral of Potions. The name Farmeceutica is so interesting… must be the derivative of our word pharmaceutical (much prefer the former and the idea of being magically healed : ) I adore Antica Farmacista essential oil reed diffusers and wonder if there is some connection! The history, ancient buildings, burnished olive trees, handcrafted goods, the wine, the food… I don’t think I would ever be able to return here if I lived there. How hard it must have been to leave…
XOXO (and for your email)
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 23, 2020 at 10:28 AM
  
  IT WAS TERRIBLY HARD FOR ME TO LEAVE with the boys, two cats and two black LABS and 18 pieces of luggage!I had three CARS take me to the ROME airport………KATHARINE was in one of those cars DRIVING!
  I was crying at the CHECK IN……..
  THE good news was THE ITALIAN was on the other end with ONE RED ROSE BOUNCING up the escalator as he had left in APRIL and we left after Kristopher finished FIRST GRADE in JUNE!
  It took me awhile to adjust to the STATES.STILL SHAKING MY HEAD and searching OUT THE ITALIAN OPERA SONGS!!!!!!
  XOXO
Ellie's friend
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February 21, 2020 at 3:18 AM

Oh, I think we should all go on a guided tour with Katharine. A friend of mine with an airline pass once took me on her pass. She has a house near Forte dei Marmi. I think you could call our self-tour the Mediaeval Hilltop Towns of Tuscany — Sienna, San Gimignano, Monte Reggiano, Volterra and a few more– and then Florence. In Florence we stayed at Villa Agape when it was owned and run by nuns. It is up on the hilltop. It is now a privately owned hotel. Coincidentally, it appears that some of my ancestors may have owned that villa in the 1600s but it cannot be proved 100%. We sat in the evening in the rose garden and listened to the music sung by a soprano — the opera notes scaling the hillside. Also Pisa and an overnight stay on Monte Argentario (on our way up from Rome’s airport). I loved stopping at Tarquinia on our way north. As well, I wanted to go to the memorial to the victims of Sant’Anna di Stazemma which we did. We ate in charming restaurants in Pietrasanta, a lovely town. We shopped at the market at Forte dei Marmi. I am still recovering many years later. It was crammed into ten days.That is not my favourite way of seeing things — I would take more time but we didn’t have it as my friend’s airline pass was about to expire. I should not have gone as, unknown to me, I was in desperate need of brain surgery. My only big regret is I was so tired when we reached Florence that I couldn’t do much. I dream of going to Florence for a couple of weeks and really seeing it, its stores, its churches, its art museums (not necessarily in that order). I have not travelled much but it was certainly the loveliest of trips. I cannot fly now but I think a guided tour with Elizabeth and Katharine would be wonderful!
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 21, 2020 at 7:53 AM
  
  ANN!
  I stayed at VILLA AGAPE the last time I was in FLORENCE!!!!!!!!!
  IT was FABULOUS!Very close to the BASILICA I was MARRIED IN SAN MINIATO AL MONTE!
  THE GARDEN WAS STUNNING!WERE YOU Following me back then?I do not think so as it was at least 7 or 8 years ago………maybe MORE but THE VIILA is on a blog post here somewhere.I will try and find it and send to YOU!
  WHAT year were you there?I have been to all the towns you mentioned here……… BELLISIMA!
  THIS MAKES ME SO HAPPY!THE PRICES WeRE SO REASONABLE TOO!Did you find the loggia on the back side?OMGOSH…….could have sat there FOREVER!
  XX
  - Elie's friend
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    February 21, 2020 at 8:00 AM
    
    Was Villa Agape run by nuns when you went? We had the most wonderful 8 course meal cooked by the nuns when we were there. About $40 US in today’s currency. I was there longer ago than you and somehow I think I knew that you had stayed there once. We did not get up to the loggia but just sat on benches in the rose garden. I have to race off to an appointment but will email you later. Ann
    - LA CONTESSA
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      Author
      
      February 21, 2020 at 8:02 AM
      
      NUNS!
      YES DINNER WAS WONDERFUL!VERY CHEAP…….I want to say $30.00!
      OFF YOU GO!
      XX
      - Ellie's friend
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        February 21, 2020 at 5:47 PM
        
        Yes, I think you’re right that it was $30 US — worth every penny! I can still remember the menu — home made ravioli, oven roasted veggies, a chop of beef, cheesecake, grapes (from their orchard), plus other fruits and cheeses, and wine they had made and their own olive oil. Do you remember there was some sort of press attached to the wall — was it for olive oil? grapes? We never figured that out.
Bonnie sachs
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February 19, 2020 at 4:43 PM

I love you????????????Such a fabulous post. It is my ULTIMATE DREAM to just up and move for a time to Italy or thereabouts. Just love Tuscany and Umbria.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 20, 2020 at 7:27 AM
  
  DO IT!
  XX
Libby Zweig
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February 19, 2020 at 2:25 PM

So fun to read this. Katharine is such an amazing human, not to mention probably the BEST tour guide in Florence/Tuscany, a hard working and loving mom and an amazing cook. All of the best characteristics rolled into one person. Hanging out with her in Florence is an unforgettable experience.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 2:57 PM
  
  FOR MY READERS……..this is a FRIEND of KATHARINE’S but low and BEHOLD LIBBY and I both grew up in the same town and took horse back riding lessons from MRS.ADAMS at the same time!!!HOW WE FIGURED THAT ONE OUT I do not recall as we have NEVER MET!But it was all done via INSTAGRAM!!!!!
  SMALL WORLD EXTRAVAGANZA if I do say so myself!
  AND YES hanging out with HER in ITALY is PRICELESS!
  THANK YOU!!!
  XX
- Katharine
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  February 20, 2020 at 8:11 AM
  
  My biggest fan… and agent… 🙂
Caroline Walker
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February 19, 2020 at 2:11 PM

What a wonderful post, Contessa. Italy is an enchanting country and should be visited at least once in a life time if at all possible. It is not only a marvelous experience, but an education, to live in a country other than the one where one was born. I am British, and in addition to foreign travel, I have lived in Switzerland, the Canary Islands, and various cities in America. I am currently in Los Angeles which is where I have lived the longest, and where we have a very active Italian Cultural Center.

Several of you have mentioned the film Room with a View. I would recommend The Great Beauty which won the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film in 2014. Although in Italian, with subtitles, it is still worthwhile.

Thank you for all the Florence connections. I will be saving them for my next trip to Italy.
In the meantime, I’m off to Holland and Belgium in April, two countries I have never been to before. Have always wanted to be in Holland at tulip time. Then the joy of visiting friends in Switzerland again. Perhaps Italy again next year? Fingers crossed!
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 2:51 PM
  
  WELL YOU ARE IN FOR A TREAT TULIPS OR NO TULIPS!!!!!!!!!!I ADORE BELGIUM!
  In fact there is a GARDEN SHOW put on by a REAL COUNT about that time!
  BOTH COUNTRIES ARE GORGEOUS………..
  SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE LIVED A WELL LIVED LIFE!
  XX
  - Caroline
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    February 19, 2020 at 3:36 PM
    
    Thank you for your kind comments. I’m happy that I did what I did but, of course, one could have probably done more! It is important to do things when one is physically able. Don’t postpone until you have health issues which tend to come when older.
    
    I do hope your health is improving so you can wander off again from time to time.
Jen
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February 19, 2020 at 2:09 PM

I LOVE Florence. Such a great city. The art. The gloves. The paper. The food. All perfect. I loved your post. Xx
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 2:44 PM
  
  MANY MANY THANKS TO KATHARINE AND MICHELLE FOR THE WORDS!!!!!
  I have yet to meet someone who hasNOT LIKED FLORENCE!!!
  XX
  - Michelle Foley
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    February 19, 2020 at 3:05 PM
    
    Contessa….the next trip…together?
    - LA CONTESSA
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      Author
      
      February 19, 2020 at 4:16 PM
      
      GREAT IDEA as I am NOW in an EMAIL back and fourth with my doctor about the RAST TEST I thought it was REST!?I AM READY TO EXPLODE!!!
      FIRENZE SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD IDEA…………..XX
Mary Ann Pickett
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February 19, 2020 at 11:44 AM

Such a fun post!!! Great newsy bits. I sent it to my sister. We are going to Cortona in June. It would be fun to have a day in Florence.
Thank you, Contessa!
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 2:43 PM
  
  OH CORTONA!!!!
  I have NEVER BEEN but that MAYES LADY LIVES THERE!
  UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN!HAVE HOWARD GET YOU INVITED!!!!!!
  THAT WOULD BE A GREAT BLOG POST!
  XX
- Michelle Foley
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  February 19, 2020 at 3:04 PM
  
  You might need a few more days….!
Rosemarie
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February 19, 2020 at 11:26 AM

Hi there CONTESSA

Enjoyed this blog. Can you believe it – when I was hitchhiking in Europe in the early 70s I ended up in Venice – I was going to spend a month exploring Italy but I met a guy with a van who was heading off to Greece the next morning so off I went. I ended up on Crete for a month then got invited to head off to Morocco by van/boat for the remainder of the winter. I only got to Italy again when the boat stopped in Naples for the day.

During my years I have met a lot of Italians – so enjoy them! We had a family friend who used to import ladies suits from Italy in the late 60s – so I bought a few. Also bought beautiful Italian leather shoes from a dept store during this time. I always enjoyed going to Little Italy in our city and to banquets/dances at the Italian Cultural Centre. Unfortunately Little Italy is changing so much with gentrification.

I’m keeping this blog post for future travel reference as it’s saying – Come to Italy – Come and explore/enjoy Florence.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 2:41 PM
  
  I THINK THAT IS A MARVELOUS IDEA………MEXICO must be TIRED OF YOU BY NOW!!!!!
  XX
Pat
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February 19, 2020 at 9:57 AM

I’ve got it! You need to go to Farmaceutica Di Santa Marie Novella to have the monks create an herbal remedy for you! I remember trying to find that place 25 years ago. Never did find it. I had to settle for one of their gorgeous scented candles that I found at another shop. I think we need a shopping trip…in Florence!
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 2:40 PM
  
  IT WAS HARD TO FIND!I REMEMBER GOING BACK AND FOURTH BUT PUSHED THROUGH A DOOR!I DO RECALL THE LAUNDRY SHOP BEING RIGHT NEXT DOOR THINKING THIS ISNOT RIGHT!
  I THINK YOU ARE ON TO SOMETHING!!!!
  XX
lisa thomson
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February 19, 2020 at 9:14 AM

Fabulous read, Contessa and Katherine! How lovely to share those memories and I hope you get to create new ones all these years later! I have been to Florence once and loved it! WE were staying in Rome and took a tour bus there so not exactly as romantic or free spirited as I would dream of. Like Kim, I also adore the move A Room With a View based on the novel by E.M. Forester. This post brought those scenes to mind.
cindy
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February 19, 2020 at 8:14 AM

This was such a fun read. We have a good friend that married an Italian and I think she would agree with the problems and the benefits. Loved Florence, so hope to return one day!!
DaniBP
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February 19, 2020 at 4:14 AM

Loved this post Contessa and I so wish I had known about the fabulous nun’s potion store before I went to Florence. I regret wasting the one day we had there, but we were with our friends and they booked a tour, which I found not thrilling, part of it was getting gelato big deal! And I didn’t even get to a paper shop, oh the sin of it. Then we had dinner in a cafeteria style place, just a waste of our one day in Florence. I would love to go back with my husband and do it properly with the list you have here. It was lovely to meet your friend who has a very beautiful Italian-American family, just like you do.
I hope you are well dear Contessa and thank you so much for this post. xxx
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 7:38 AM
  
  THAT ISNOT THE WAY TO BE INTRODUCED TO FLORENCE!
  LETS DO A RE-DO!!!
  KATHARINE use to give tours and she still does on occasion!I bet I can make THAT CONNECTION HAPPEN!!
  XX
Karen Persson
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February 19, 2020 at 1:49 AM

Wonderful story and great photos! Do you think you’ll eventually move back to California, Katherine? Why did you move to Italy? You moved there with your boyfriend or did you follow a handsome Italy man?? Are you still working for the marble industry?

I love Siena and Italy but haven’t been there in years.

Elizabeth, when are you going to visit her again???

Love,

Karenxoxxo
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 9:20 AM
  
  AS SOON AS I AM WELL ENOUGH TO FLY!
  XOXO
- Katharine
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  February 20, 2020 at 8:08 AM
  
  No plans to move back to CA anytime soon. I met my boyfriend-husband-now ex husband in Florence in the 80s, went back and forth for a few years then I took the plunge and moved here. The marble industry job pretty much stopped when I had my son in 1989. The lira was so well priced against the dollar that companies just shipped their own big blocks of marble and had them processed directly in the states. It was fun while it lasted ! Did a million other things since then, mostly showing people around Italy. Now still doing a bit of that and a bit of writing and teaching.
  
  Elizabeth needs to come visit SOOOOOOON ! I told her she should organize a tour and bring all of YOU !
  - Karen Persson
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    March 1, 2020 at 12:50 PM
    
    Yes, Elizabeth you need to visit her and organize a tour! I’ll take part!
    
    Wonderful, Katharine, that you’ve stayed in Italy and made such a great life there. One thing I know about living in Europe for 48 years, is that I know I’ve been influenced so well in many ways. Our sense of style improves so much!
Sandra Sallin - Apart From My Art rt
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February 18, 2020 at 10:16 PM

Oh, I love Florence. Of course I started as an artist, The Pitti Palace, the Uffizi, the Lawerncian Library, Fran Angelico, I could go on and on. Then of course there is Angela Caputi jewelry. The food, perfection, wine, I could go on and on. I remember going to the Santo Novella looking for ??? I loved it all. In fact what’s not to love?
Candace Wilson Culp
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February 18, 2020 at 10:10 PM

I’ve tucked this away on my travel file hoping for the day I return to Italia.
What an exciting life you’ve all lived. And your are all so beautiful as well.
Xo
Lillian Plummer
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February 18, 2020 at 5:17 PM

Such an interesting post, going back to re read it as there is a lot to take in. Love Florence.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 19, 2020 at 7:33 AM
  
  YOU are SO KIND LILLIAN!
  THANK YOU!
  XX
Susie
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February 18, 2020 at 4:07 PM

What a fabulously interesting post, plus all the comments. I finish a garden tour and will be in Florence on my own in early May and was wondering whether to stay or go somewhere else. Everyone’s posts make me think I’ll stay and explore that region. So very grateful for the information on the shops and Cafés.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 5:09 PM
  
  WHAT GARDEN TOUR WHERE?
  Don’t miss the ANGELA CAPUTI SHOP either………..costume jewelry and great eyewear chains to hold the glasses around your neck!!!
  XX
Jennafer Grace
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February 18, 2020 at 3:12 PM

I loved this little insight and especially the family pictures! I didn’t know that the stores closed randomly – like Italian siesta?

Either way, it’s nice when people DRESS!
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 3:55 PM
  
  EXACTLY!!!
  BANKS TOO……………LUNCH IS IMPORTANTE!!!!!
  OF course you do YOU DESIGNER YOU!
  XOXO
DinnerPartyGuru
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February 18, 2020 at 2:26 PM

LOVED all of this post. Randy and I always wanted to be expats somewhere in Europe. Alas he is nearing the retirement time and no overseas assignments yet, although he does work with people all over the world.

Hopefully we can be expats in retirement. I dream of France, San Miguel (Mexico) or the Netherlands. Great advise and memories here in this wonderful blog entry.

You will definitely be invited if we make the leap otherwise always welcome here in Texas which is like another country in it’s own right!

Thanks again for taking me along on this memory lane.

Amanda
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 3:57 PM
  
  THAT would be very EXCITING!!!
  I would LOVE to see San Miguel……………thats on my BUCKET LIST!I have a feeling I wouldn’t want to leave!
  I do believe the TEXAN GALS will rival the ITALIANS as far as DRESS CODE!!!!!!
  I would LOVE TO SEE THAT!
  Don;t give up on me!!!!!
  XX
Sierra
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February 18, 2020 at 2:25 PM

Love this so much! I feel so lucky to have been born and raised in Florence with an American mother. Best of both worlds, wouldn’t have had it any other way!

xxx
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 3:53 PM
  
  YES!! YOU are a LUCKY, LUCKY GIRL to have had MY GIRLFRIEND as your MAMMA!!!!!!!
  YOU had MY sister in law as your babysitter for awhile do you remember GABRIELLA?
  She has two sons now!
  THANK YOU for commenting………….I wish MORE of the ITALIAN FOLLOWING would do the same!Perhaps, I can have YOU answer a few questions for another blog post further on in the year.What its like to be BI-lingual and how the Italian has helped YOU survive in the USA!It would be fun to hear from a young person the perspective etc…….YOU GAME?
  XX
Michelle Troglia Foley
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February 18, 2020 at 2:03 PM

Elizabeth my friend..you always turn everything into happiness! I laugh til i cry with you.. Thank you for including my “Florence Finds” on your blog. I hope some of your readers will use it on their next visit to this heavenly city! If anyone has places to add or correct…bring it on so I can add them to my list! Elizabeth…keep bringing on the smiles and the laughs… Ciao Ciao Michelle
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 3:47 PM
  
  OF COURSE I WILL!
  LOVED our conversation today!WE must speak MORE OFTEN!
  Better yet I must get to CHICAGO this SPRING/SUMMER!!!!
  SO we can HUG and CHATTER ALL DAY LONG!
  XX
  - Michelle Foley
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    February 19, 2020 at 5:20 AM
    
    I’m holding you to that trip! Chicago might not ever be the same!!!!….lots of LOVE
    PS…Allergist/Chiropractor
    - LA CONTESSA
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      Author
      
      February 19, 2020 at 6:33 AM
      
      ON IT!!!
      THANK YOU!
      XX
Kathy L
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February 18, 2020 at 12:56 PM

I enjoyed this post very much! Maybe it’s because I am half Italian, but I love everything about Italy. Florence is my favorite city. A friend met and married a woman in Italy. 34 years ago she came to live in the US without speaking a word of English. She missed many things about Italy (esp. her family), but overall she was happy to live in the US and raise her family here. I’ve seen her in shorts but never pants – and definitely not jeans – even during the East Coast winters.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 3:46 PM
  
  THOSE ITALIAN’s Have a STYLE that is seldom copied here!!!!!!!!
  XX
Loree
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February 18, 2020 at 11:28 AM

That was a wonderful read. I really enjoyed reading about the shopping in Florence. Now I want to go back. It’s been 17 years. We were there for part of our honeymoon. Many people go to exotic places for their honeymoon but we wanted to go somewhere we already loved. So we chose Italy. And Italy is never a bad idea. I can’t remember any of the places we shopped at. But my favourite painting in all the world, Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’ is in Florence and anyone that goes there should really go see it. It always makes me smile.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 3:44 PM
  
  SO many GREAT PAINTING IN FLORENCE!ALL the ones I studied in college in ART HISTORY class 101!!!!!!
  DO you know Florence has so many that many are in storage unseen just stacked in piles!!!!!
  Do you know about the secret corridor from the Pitti Palace to the UFFIZI?It was not OPEN when I lived there but special people got to go if YOU knew the right PEOPLE!I would LOVE to do that ONE DAY!
  MY honeymoon was in ITALY too but not in Florence as we were married there so a sailboat took us island hopping and we ended at the campground where my ITALIANS family were staying!WE swam ashore and a MAN we called JESUS spotted us!He was a friend of the family.
  XX
Nancy
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February 18, 2020 at 11:20 AM

My sister Laurie and her husband Blair Pessemier live in Italy. They rent a large old house in Northern Italy. In Southern Italy they own a small condo. They have lived in Paris France for about 20 years and relocated to Italy.
Both of them are artists. Her husband Blair does Portraits the best just amazing!
They are always doing something and always interesting.
My sister has lived a very interesting unique life!
Get in touch with them. They have lived an awesome life!
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 3:38 PM
  
  SOUNDS Like it!From AMERICA to PARIS to ITALY!!!
  Those who travel are so fortunate!
  It truly is a GIFT and to live in another country was BIG EYE OPENER for ME!
  THANK YOU!
  XX
Auntybelle
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February 18, 2020 at 11:00 AM

Contessa!!!! Oh MY HEAVENS! This post is pure heaven truly it is! Loved every word of it and now I want to pack a bag and dash out my door! I can’t imagine raising children in the midst of all that beauty and history- incredible thought. Fortunate children. As you know from my own post today- which I PROMISE I’d planned even before I saw your FLORENCE post, because it’s is feast day for Fra Angelico— I have been to Florence and as wonderful, to the little town above Florence, Fiesole. I would encourage all your readers to take at least a half a day to explore Fiesole- an Etruscan dream complete with an ancient amphitheater. There is a 9th century basilica, several 13th century monasteries and the magnificent hotel, Villa San Michele with its astounding view of Florence laid out beneath its terrace. Yes, designed by Michelangelo! Also, Georgetown university has a mini campus in a Villa on the opposite hill. And, for history buffs, you can visit the wooded site where Leonardo implored a servant to “fly” off the hillside with the inventor’s wings— and crashed to his death. From the town plaza walk up up up toward the old monastery- along the way there is a tiny leather shop with the owner/artisan busily making belts and bags. Excellent work and so reasonable. I could scribble more, but cannot top the shopping list from Katherine!! I cannot wait to get back to Italy, though I spent a month there this October, alas, all work and never made it out of Rome! This post was wonderful?
Auntybelle
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February 18, 2020 at 11:00 AM

Contessa!!!! Oh MY HEAVENS! This post is pure heaven truly it is! Loved every word of it and now I want to pack a bag and dash out my door! I can’t imagine raising children in the midst of all that beauty and history- incredible thought. Fortunate children. As you know from my own post today- which I PROMISE I’d planned even before I saw your FLORENCE post, because it’s is feast day for Fra Angelico— I have been to Florence and as wonderful, to the little town above Florence, Fiesole. I would encourage all your readers to take at least a half a day to explore Fiesole- an Etruscan dream complete with an ancient amphitheater. There is a 9th century basilica, several 13th century monasteries and the magnificent hotel, Villa San Michele with its astounding view of Florence laid out beneath its terrace. Yes, designed by Michelangelo! Also, Georgetown university has a mini campus in a Villa on the opposite hill. And, for history buffs, you can visit the wooded site where Leonardo implored a servant to “fly” off the hillside with the inventor’s wings— and crashed to his death. From the town plaza walk up up up toward the old monastery- along the way there is a tiny leather shop with the owner/artisan busily making belts and bags. Excellent work and so reasonable. I could scribble more, but cannot top the shopping list from Katherine!! I cannot wait to get back to Italy, though I spent a month there this October, alas, all work and never made it out of Rome! This post was wonderful?
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 3:35 PM
  
  Shopping LIST is from MICHELLE!
  HOW ON EARTH CAN YOU LEAVE OUT THE FERRAGAMO ESTATE WITH THE PEACOCKS!!!!!!!!Or did you NOT know their home was there?Behind THAT wall as you climb to the town of FIESOLE!I feel I know them WELL as one of their PEACOCKS flew over my CAR!!!!!!!!!!
  THANK you for writing this twice!I found ONE comment in SPAM so wanted you to know it was there so next time don’t re-write I will FIND IT!!!
  XX
  PS. What do you do for work?That takes you to ROME?
  - Auntybelle
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    February 20, 2020 at 1:45 PM
    
    Oh oh!! The Feragamos- ahaha. You read my post on Fra Angelico? With the descriptions of Fiesole- and I do think I know of that ceramic shop. If you go back for your health, whistle at me, who knows, I could perhaps find an assignment in Italy?. ( rarely these days, but in ancient times I occasionally had writing assignments that took me to Italy. This other life is not known on Auntybelle’s IG. Shhhhh?)
Penelope
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February 18, 2020 at 10:10 AM

Ah, so timely as I have a few days planned in Florence in May before attending an art workshop at an “agriturismo” in the Tuscan countryside near Grosseto for a week. Now I have some good tips for my meandering. I do shop for clothes there, have not found it prohibitively expensive, not designer lines but little boutiques. Do you know the line Maliparmi? Very cool and colorful, based in Milan I think, but shops in many cities. I discovered them in Florence a few years ago.
Anyway, I really enjoyed this account of your old friendship and the pros and cons of an expat life. Mille Grazie!
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 3:31 PM
  
  OKAY SO GROSSETTO was near our campground which was called BAIA VERDE.I have a FRIEND who is from HOLLAND who runs an AGRITURISIM on the hills above GROSSETTO.I’m sure there are a few in those hills.
  So, there is PUNTA ALA with a yacht harbor good for an ice cream and CASTELONI della PESCAIA which I am certain I spelled wrong maybe KATHARINE can SPELL it correctly which is an ADORABLE seaside town NOT TO BE MISSED!
  Grossetto is BIG and ugly and loads of apartment buildings so YOU can MISS THAT!
  These other villages are way more charming!
  XX
Josephine Floyd
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February 18, 2020 at 10:05 AM

A wonderful blog on one of my favourite countries and the city of Florence in particular my must visit again city.
I will always remember camping with the children just above the Ponte Vecchio in 1985 ! walking* down thru the gardens and over the bridge into another world . Exploring exploring , very little money to spend as we were camping around Europe for 5 months but what a visual feast . Thankyou again Eluzabeth for bringing back such memories , also the tips on where t visit next trip xxxx
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 3:24 PM
  
  WHAT A MAGICAL ADVENTURE YOU DID.
  CAMPING IS BIG IN ITALY but totally different from THE STATES!
  THAT would make a GREAT BLOG POST TOO!
  I could NEVER TIRE of FLORENCE!
  XX
April
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February 18, 2020 at 9:43 AM

I want to go now!
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 3:22 PM
  
  ANDIAMO = WE GO!!!!
  XX
DEBBIE WILLIAMS
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February 18, 2020 at 9:30 AM

I am so excited to read this post! I am leaving on March 9 for three months in Europe…..the last bit I will be in Tuscany checking out Etruscan tombs and museums……. and then Florence for an enneagram/Dante workshop. I have purchased the Santa Maria Novella things here in the Bay Area at The Gardener on fourth street in Berkeley and LOVE them. I have had the terra cotta pomegranate for several years and when I enter my bedroom it still greets me with it fabulous fragrance! And I will definitely try the almond cream recommended. The small wax sachets are wonderful in drawers and I will get lots for friends because they pack very well.
I can’t wait to search out some of the other places she recommends for a few luxuries and THE FOOD!
THANK YOU!!!!
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 3:21 PM
  
  PEE GREEN with ENVY HERE THREE MONTHS!!!!!!!
  YES, THE GARDENER in BERKELEY carries bits and pieces of the line!
  HAVE A WONDERFUL TRIP may I recommend a NEW paperback book that’s out called FROM SCRATCH.A story about an AMERICAN GAL who went to school in Florence and married a man from SICILY he was a chef at one of the IN SPOTS in FLORENCE!ITS a GOOD READ………..perfect for the plane!
  SAFE TRAVELS and when your down at THE ARNO LOOK UP on the HILL for SAN MINIATO I was married there 33 years ago!
  XX
kim
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February 18, 2020 at 8:42 AM

Elizabeth I really enjoyed this post and I hope you do more on Italy. maybe going back would be good for you for a couple of weeks. I want to believe you are dealing with a migraine though- and maybe there are preventative things that can help at all?

I love Florence too and I cannot help thinking of Room With a View, the very best film in my opinion ever, and shows off Italy so well. I dream of waking up to that view someday.. The last two times we were there we stayed at a wonderful place called Iparigi. https://www.iparigi.com It’s an old fortress that is up on a full, with stunning views and a pool among the olive trees. We stayed with our kids and had breakfast in the garden every morning which was magical and they always got the kids donuts. You can take the city bus for a five minute trip into central Florence if you walk down the hill. It was easy and in the afternoons we would go back to the hotel, sit by the pool and have some of their own amazing wine and pizza. One day I would like to go and stay in the city center too.
There is a teeny, tiny cafe that is tucked in an alley right next to the Uffizi and we dashed in there to escape the rain. The waitresses had old fashioned aprons and caps like in the 1950’s , but the sandwiches were amazing. I love how you choose a sandwich and then they toast it and throw some olive oil all over it. Unbelievably good and memorable.

I bought my most favorite teal bag at Furla there and we also bought my husband a beautiful sweater jacket at Coin department store which has an incredible men’s department.

I wish I had more recommendations, but I need to get back there. My children were small and I was a bit intimidated bringing them to restaurants. We usually ate early. I did get to Santa Maria Novella and did not buy anything. Also a bit intimidating for a young American. I need to go back. Maybe with someone who knows Italy!!
xo

P.s. This post has photos of Iparigi and some places we went back then with the kids. http://northerncalstyle.com/2013/03/traveling-abroad-with-kids.html
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 8:57 AM
  
  YOUR HOTEL here was at my FREEWAY EXIT!
  CERTOSA!
  Wonderful Monastery on the hill there too run by MONKS!
  I bought my first and last FURLA BAG there too!
  AS FOR COIN DEPARTMENT STORE They had the BEST KITCHEN Section downstairs and a HIDDEN BATHROOM IN THE MENS DEPARTMENT I WOULD FREQUENT OFTEN!AS restrooms are Not widely available unless you BUY something at THE BAR than you can ask for the KEY which NO ITALIAN EVER DID!
  I LOVED YOU SHARING YOUR POST!!THE BOYS SO SMALL………….
  XOXO
  - Katharine
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    February 18, 2020 at 10:17 AM
    
    Just so you don’t get lost next time you come, Elizabeth…. The Certosa exit has been renamed IMPRUNETA !
    - LA CONTESSA
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      Author
      
      February 18, 2020 at 3:16 PM
      
      THIS MADE WITH SCREAM with LAUGHTER!
      I almost told how to GO THE BACK ROUTE TO MY POT PLACE FROM HERE!!!!BUT I STOPPD MYSELF!
      IMPRUNETA is NOW on the MAP and my secret is OUT!HOW COULD THEY TELL ALL OF FIRENZE SUD?
      For those of you in the dark IMPRUENTA has the most pinkish clay and makes the most Beautiful terra-cotta pots!NOT RED but PINKY LIGHT PINK!I have a couple of small ones here at home that made there way back with me!
      If you LOVE TO GARDEN YOU NEED TO SEE THE POT PLACES IN IMPRUNETA!!!!
      XX
Nancy Case
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February 18, 2020 at 8:35 AM

Awwww Contessa! Such a informative and inspiring post! Let’s go! Shall we?!?! I love meeting your friends too.. thank you for sharing ladies!!!
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 8:49 AM
  
  CERTO OF COURSE!!!!
  WE NEED TO GO!
  XX
Dee Tivenan
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February 18, 2020 at 8:12 AM

I loved this.
Thank you.
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 8:44 AM
  
  THANK YOU!
  XX
Diana Amato
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February 18, 2020 at 7:49 AM

What an adventure! I am dreaming of packing my bags again, as we speak! I know that every time I visit Italy, I leave a piece of my heart there. One day soon I will have to go there to live just to put it back together again. From where I stayed during my last visit, I think much of what you described here was within just a few short hours drive. I will certainly tuck this list in my wallet the next time I go.
For me, my funniest story from this last trip was the grocery store experience. I started to grab the fruit to put into a bag. The look of horror on my friend’s face was classic. “Amo, in Italia non tocchi il frutta!” I looked around thinking what’s up with that? I was presented with a plastic glove which I put on my right hand. I grabbed the fruit with my left unthinking, and he rolled his eyes at me and we both burst out laughing!
Tanti Baci

XOXOX
Zingara
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:53 AM
  
  Proprio CATTIVA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  YOU have me laughing out loud!
  NO gloves in 1991!!!!!!!!!
  You must GO BACK……….and spend a couple of days a FIRENZE!Katharine will meet up with YOU for a cafe……….and you two can go back and fourth in ITALIAN and ENGLISH!
  I would LOVE to be a fly on the wall for THAT!
  XOXO
  - Diana Amato
    · Reply
    
    February 18, 2020 at 10:18 AM
    
    Perhaps it is an adventure we can do…insieme!
    
    Va bene..
    
    XO
    Zingara
    - LA CONTESSA
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      Author
      
      February 19, 2020 at 6:28 AM
      
      SI!!!!!!!!
      XOXO
Katharine
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February 18, 2020 at 7:20 AM

What a great honor to be presented here on your lovely blog, my friend. Oh, the stories we could tell…. right? I agree with what you’ve said at the end here… it is TIME for you to come back and make some new memories, some new stories to tell. Then we really WILL write that book about you.

P.S. Gaia thanks you.
- LA CONTESSA
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  February 18, 2020 at 8:06 AM
  
  Luciana may be on to SOMETHING!I just need to get back to my BELOVED FIRENZE!
  Florence could HEAL ANYONE!
  Just watching the people and listening to their conversations would be a GOOD tonic for me!Plus seeing the older AMERICAN MEN with their socks on with their sandals in their shorts will give me a GOOD LIFT TOO!
  XX
1010ParkPlace
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February 18, 2020 at 7:11 AM

Such a treat to hear from an America woman who’s lived there and raised her children for 35 years! I know your experience, Elizabeth, played a big role in the woman you’ve become. Most of us will never know what it’s like to live in another country so thank you for sharing. I found a video online about the Farmacia! Wow!! https://youtu.be/IH0QsaS7Iss Caio! xoxox, Brenda
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 8:02 AM
  
  OH MY GOSH that video was a walk down memory LANE for me!They even had my BELOVED ORCHIO’S in the GARDEN!There was NO TEA ROOM or MUSEUM I don’t think when I lived there………….SO MUST GO BACK!
  THANK YOU for finding this!
  XOXO
Judith
· Reply

February 18, 2020 at 7:04 AM

Contessa, thank you for another amazing post! I have only gotten to visit Italy once, but did go to Florence, which is the most breathtaking place I have ever beheld. I did go to the Farmaceutica Di Santa Marie Novella, and it is indeed amazing. I got quite a bit of soap there. That place alone is worth a trip to Italy. It was so nice to read your friend’s perspective, and you are both so fortunate to have each other. More cultural articles, please!
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:54 AM
  
  GOT IT!
  WILL DO……………….FLORENCE is MY FAVORITE CITY ANYWHERE!
  XX
  - Judith
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    February 19, 2020 at 6:07 AM
    
    I volunteer to go there with you on your experimental trip (where you leave home and the detergent, soap, etc. that the psychic said was bothering you) and see if that cures your mystery illness!
debra @ 5th and state
· Reply

February 18, 2020 at 6:28 AM

I LOVED THIS POST!!!
as you know, I dream of living in Europe and found this fascinating. yes, you must go back, for your health!!!

with love
Debra
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:49 AM
  
  I think SO TOO!
  A month may be TOO SHORT!
  You could visit me !!
  XX
Mithra Ballesteros
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February 18, 2020 at 5:48 AM

Wow! Thirty-five years away from home. Which begs the question: for Katharine, what is home exactly? I’d love to sit with her for hours and ask more questions. What is it like to view America from such a distance. Does she understand this country better or worse? And her education in cooking. Was it in fits and starts? Was it smooth? Sooo many more questions! Very cool pics too. Loved this post. Going back now to read about the shopping.
- Katharine
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  February 18, 2020 at 7:24 AM
  
  Answering your questions would be a good start to the book I’m supposed to write on all of this, Mithra. The easiest question to answer is about the cooking… it just comes from hanging out with Italians who know think the question asked in the states “do you cook” is only for insane people !
- Karen Persson
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  February 19, 2020 at 1:39 AM
  
  I’ve been 48 years away from home, living in the Netherlands since I moved there to study art but I still feel California is my home and where my roots are. I love living in Europe… and actually wouldn’t mind living in Italy. 🙂
Judy
· Reply

February 18, 2020 at 4:46 AM

Divine! Thanks so much for all this info. makes me want to go back as soon as possible. loved the photos too!!
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:47 AM
  
  SO WELCOME!!!
  IT is a BEAUTIFUL city and walkable!!!!!!!!
  XX
Taste of France
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February 18, 2020 at 3:38 AM

Oh la la! I have been reminiscing about Florence, and now I really want to go back. I’m saving this post for the great list of recommendations.
I think it’s easier to move internationally now. I lived in Africa in the mid-80s, and that was rough–no phone, no Internet, plus no electricity or running water. When we moved here, I talked to my parents via Skype almost daily. I met some other expats but no Americans. We really are in the middle of nowhere. Of course there are still cultural differences with the U.S., but TV and Internet have lessened them a lot.
Many years ago, I rented a villa outside Florence for a family vacation. It was truly lovely if you want a country vacation: Villa Capitata.
I still have a leather coat I bought on an early trip to Florence, and a shearling coat my then-boyfriend haggled for (the fact that he could haggle, and do it in five languages, factored into my decision to keep him).
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:45 AM
  
  I bet KATHARINE would know the people you got the coats from!There were a couple of AMERICANS married to ITALIANS who were in that business!There was one family who found an ORCHIO underground in their old farmhouse……….it had been the POTTY long ago!!!DO you remember that KATHARINE?I was DYING TO FIND AN OLD BIG ORCHIO…………..they are the terra-cotta POTS used in the GARDENS.I finally found a small one that came from a VILLA down the road where another AMERICAN lived JESSICA!I was Terrified it would not make the move back to the USA and would be in small bits and pieces!IT MADE IT and NOW resides in my living room!!!!
  XX
Parnassus
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February 18, 2020 at 3:31 AM

Hello Contessa, How much of Katharine’s (and your) ex-pat experience parallels my own! Living in another country is an incredible adventure, and the simplest everyday errands can become as interesting as visiting the most famous monuments. I similarly have found that in addition to friends, I have bonded to a group that is now my Taiwan family. I have also been lucky to be able to spend so much time in the U.S. each summer, visiting my own family while avoiding the scorching heat.
–Jim
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:38 AM
  
  IT truly OPENS your eyes…………….NOT having a DRYER with a household of SIX was DEVASTATING TO ME!ALL the laundry had to be hung in the CALDIO.I spelled that wrong!It was where the WATER tank was so it was a warm little room off the SOJOURNO which would be the breakfast room for most homes.The water was so HARD EVERYTHING HAD TO BE IRONED!WE had WELL WATER.It was like I used STARCH on the clothing hard as a rock…………….
  XX
Annie Diamond
· Reply

February 17, 2020 at 8:48 PM

Elizabeth! I loved this post. I’ve been to Florence three times in the last 5 years…If only I had this post and shopping list! Although, every time we go we end up with several tickets in the mail. Apparently for driving in restricted zones. I think I need you as my guide next time!
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:32 AM
  
  OR KATHARINE as she can DRIVE in those zones and knows HOW!!!!!!!!!!
  She has been known to do a little bit of touring with the AMERICANS!!!
  AND knows OTHERS who do for a LIVING!
  Did you ever go up to SAN MINIATO AL MONTE?The church on the hill over looking Florence?I was married there!!
  XX
KATHIE TRUITT
· Reply

February 17, 2020 at 7:56 PM

Interesting – ALL OF IT. My daughter married an Italian boy and they go to Italy each year to visit his family. I always thought I’d be the grandma that cooked southern food and my grandchildren would love it. Nope. They have such sophisticated palates and none of it includes southern. They have to have their dad’s famous lasagna, or meat sauce, or bolognese whatever, whatever. I can’t wait to go with them sometime to visit and see it all for my self.
- LA CONTESSA
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  Author
  
  February 18, 2020 at 7:30 AM
  
  What part of ITALY does HE COME FROM KATHIE?
  DOES HE USE ROCK SALT in the PASTA WATER?
  YOU MUST GO its a different WORLD!!!!
  XX